Shoshone Lake Once Again

Varsity Team and Venture Crew 244 voted to do the Shoshone Lake canoe trek for their 2012 high adventure. We scheduled our trek for June 4th through 7th. The backcountry rangers would not issue permits for Shoshone Lake prior to June 15th so we obtained permits for Yellowstone Lake hoping we could switch them for Shoshone Lake permits if the ice came off the lakes by early June. Young Men president Clarke Farrer had led several treks into Shoshone Lake in recent years and served as the guide for Crew 244’s trek.

We met early on the morning of the 4th and headed out for Yellowstone National Park. Those who went were; Escher Whiting, Greg Stevenson, David Hafen, Zach Buell, Nathan Vance, Jonathan Hatch, Nick Madsen, Colby & Bridger Walker, Zach Patterson and his friend Nathan Derby. The adult leaders were Bishop Bryant Hafen, Jared Madsen, and Clarke Farrer.

We borrowed a 15-passenger van and the canoes from the Boy Scouts and towed a cargo trailer full of our gear. Jared Madsen towed the canoe trailer with his pick-up. We drove through Swan Valley and over Pine Creek Pass to Victor, Idaho. We stopped at the Victor Emporium for milkshakes. From there we drove over the Teton Pass into Wilson, Wyoming. We decided to take the scenic drive through Grand Teton National Park by going through Moose, Wyoming. Unfortunately when we arrived at the Park entrance they would not let us enter with the canoe trailer and we had to backtrack and go through Jackson Hole and north on the main highway to Yellowstone NP. We stopped at the Backcountry Ranger Station in Grant Village where we checked in at the Backcountry Ranger’s office. They had just opened Shoshone Lake over the weekend and we were able to change our permits to our original trek plans. We also bought fishing permits. Yellowstone Lake was closed to fishing but Shoshone Lake was open.

We had reserved two adjacent campsites at Bridge Bay Campground. We drove north past West Thumb Bay along the beautiful shore of Yellowstone Lake and set up our camp and had lunch. We all piled into the van and drove to the Old Faithful area of the Park. Just as we pulled up Old Faithful started its periodic eruption and everyone climbed out and ran over to watch one of the world’s natural wonders. There were hundreds of tourists there watching the show.

We decided to hike the loop trail up to the Geyser Hill overlook, down to Grand Geyser, past Castle Geyser, and then into the Old Faithful Lodge for a quick tour on the way. Our timing was perfect as almost every one of the geysers erupted while we were on the hike and we were able to see many of the thermal features in action. We passed a cow elk by the trail and Zach Patterson tried to approach it. When he got too close the elk started to charge him. He withdrew quickly and we all learned a good lesson. Soon after that we came upon a buffalo grazing near the trail. We kept our distance and he was content to keep eating and made for a good photo opportunity. Then as we returned past the Old Faithful geyser it erupted again!

We drove back to Bridge Bay and cooked our dinners. All the food had been divided up into dry bags, one for each pair of canoe partners. After a fireside by the Bishop we went to sleep. A light rain fell during the night. The next morning we left early and drove back down to Grant Village to pick up the canoes and purchase some fishing gear at the trading post. We drove south to the Lewis Lake boat ramp, unloaded the canoes, and stowed our dry bags into the canoes. After parking the vehicles and trailers behind the ranger station we were ready to head out.

It was a beautiful clear morning. We paddled west from the dock directly to the western shore of Lewis Lake and then followed the shoreline north. We stopped for a rest at the thermal area about midway up the lake. After checking out the hot springs we paddled up to the outlet of the Lewis River and started upstream. Two thirds of the river is easy paddling but the upper third is where it gets challenging. The current gradually increases until you have to paddle hard and use all your maneuvering skills. Finally you get to a point where, paddle as hard as you can, you can make no further progress. That’s when it’s time to get out and start wading. We rested and ate lunch before we started the wading portion of the trek. We sent half the group up the trail with as much gear as they could carry and the rest of the group pulled the canoes up the river. Wading up the river is difficult and you have to set you mind to it and keep at it until you succeed. We met up at the outlet where we paddled the canoes to the beach in front of the Outlet campsite.

Because we had fourteen people in our group we had to divide into two crews. The bishop and his crew were camping at the 8S1 Outlet campsite just northeast of the outlet of Shoshone Lake. The other crew paddled across the bay to 8Q9 Channel campsite north and west of the outlet. This campsite is in a better location but not nearly as large or open as Outlet. There was a storm moving in from the north so we put up the rain fly and hung our wet clothes out under it so they could start dying out. We pitched our tents, cooked dinner, cleaned up, and hung up the bear bags. At dusk we did some fishing off the point and caught some huge brook trout. A light snow started to fall so climbed into our bags and went to sleep.

A couple of inches of snow had fallen during the night and it was still cold and cloudy the next morning. After breakfast and breaking down camp the Bishop’s crew paddled over and linked up with the rest of the group. We were just cleaning up as they arrived. There was a discussion about whether to press on or paddle out due to the poor weather. After a group prayer we agreed to paddle north onto the main lake and assess the conditions there. On the lake it was windy with some light snow showers but as long as we stayed close to shore the conditions were not too bad so we decided to paddle on to the narrows and see how things looked there.

We paddled west along the southern shore across the lake to the Narrows. The wind was still blowing and there were waves in the narrows but the weather had improved and the sun was trying to burn through the clouds. We beached our canoes and hiked out to the point to look at the narrows. We went back and held a “waterside” in the protection of some trees. After the Bishop spoke we had a kneeling prayer and we felt good about crossing the narrows.

As a matter of principle any group should paddle hard to shorten the exposure to the dangers of the Narrows crossing. This time we all had to paddle as hard as we could to make headway against the storm. The wind was coming from the north so we had to paddle directly into it. The spray from the canoes cutting through the waves and off the paddles was getting everyone wet and cold. Everyone had a tough crossing and a few of the canoes really had a difficult time. Everyone made the crossing safely and we rested on the beach and had lunch.

The Bishop’s crew was camping at 8R1 North Narrows and the other crew at 8R2 Bluff Top west of the Narrows. After about an hour’s rest the second crew paddled there, unloaded the canoes, and set up camp. After a while two NPS rangers hiked up the trail and came into the campsite and looked around to be sure we were following the rules. They stayed for about ten minutes looking around and asking questions. They checked out the crew’s permit. After they left everyone did some fishing off the point northwest of the campsite. The fishing was great and everyone was catching large lake trout and it made for a lot of fun.

The wind blew fairly steady throughout the morning but by early afternoon the wind had let up enough for the second crew to paddle back to the Narrows and join the Bishop’s crew for dinner. Each crew had caught plenty of fish and kept enough to have a good fish fry for dinner. The Bishop had brought some foil and butter to cook the fish. One of the trout’s flesh was as pink as a salmon. We cooked and ate our dinners together, visited, and had our daily waterside with the Bishop. While we were there the wind died down and by the time we paddled back the lake was peaceful and calm. Everyone went to bed soon after we got back to camp.

We were up early Thursday morning to get an early start on the day and hopefully get off the lakes before the afternoon winds picked up. After a group prayer to start the day we had an easy crossing of the Narrows and paddled back to the outlet of the lake. Before we entered the river we stopped for some whitewater instructions. We were particularly concerned with the snag at the sharp bend in the river that had caught canoes on previous treks. The strength of the current and the flow of the river could easily carry a canoe into the stump of the snag if we were not very careful on that first big bend in the river and during the rest of the river run.

Most of the canoes followed the lead canoe close to the inside curve of the bend, but two canoes got out into the main current and were heading straight for the snag. With some hard paddling and maneuvering they were able to avoid the snag. We continued down the river at a brisk pace and it took some whitewater skill to stay in the middle and avoid the many snags on the sides. There were a few other close calls with sweepers on the banks but everyone came through the rapids upright and dry—except for the last canoe. The six other canoes pulled to shore at the bottom of the run to wait for the Bishop and Escher in the last canoe bringing up the rear. Too much time had passed and they had not appeared. Several of us ran up the trail to investigate. They had run into a rock and swamped. Except for wounded pride and a good soaking they were fine. We helped them round up their gear, drain the water, and reload their canoe. With that the riskiest parts of the trip were over.

The rest of the float down the river was easy. It was a spectacularly beautiful morning and the morning air was calm and clear. It was one of those stunning wilderness experiences that too few people in our modern world have a chance to experience. For a few precious moments it felt like we were the only ones in the world in the middle of all that wild beauty.

We paddled down the river and out into Lewis Lake. Once on the lake you can see the cars and RV’s driving on the highway that skirts the lake on the eastern shore. That’s when you know your wilderness experience is almost over and it’s time to head back to civilization. We followed the western shore south down the lake. There were clouds building on the southern horizon and a light wind was blowing but the conditions were very favorable.

As we got closer to the boat ramp the canoes started veering towards the shore and pretty soon there was a final sprint to see who would arrive first. There was no discussion; everyone just started to paddle faster and faster in an impromptu race to the finish line.

We brought the canoe trailer down and emptied the canoes, cleaned them up, wiped them off (to comply with invasive aquatic species state laws), and loaded then onto the trailer. We loaded all the gear in the truck and trailer. Once everything was loaded we dropped the canoes and trailer in the parking lot behind the ranger station for later treks to use. We loaded into the vehicles for the drive back to Idaho Falls.

The young men were wonderful to be with and we had no problems with any of them. The weather was bad, the wading was grueling, and the first Narrows crossing was perilous but that is the price you have to pay to enjoy wild beauty and peace of untouched wilderness. Seeing the sunrise over Shoshone Lake makes you grateful to the Lord for creating such places of stunning beauty for His children to enjoy.

[I will add photos later when I have time.]